It is difficult to find a restaurant which prioritises wine as much as it does cuisine, but D-Wine in Marbella has managed to strike the ideal balance between the two and much of the magic has to do with having found the perfect staff. At the helm of the kitchen is Edmund Cicans – a Latvian-born Chef who has more than proven his talent for over 15 years at top establishments along the Coast.
Selecting and overseeing the vast wine offering at D-Wine, meanwhile, is Julio García – who selects a multitude of Spanish and international bottles for the restaurant itself and for the venue’s highly acclaimed wine shop. D-Wine is home to Spain’s largest collection of wines. It has received honours from The World of Fine Wine for its three-star wine list and from the Wine Spectator, “for having an exceptional wine list and displaying a deep commitment to wine.”
D-Wine is the sum of various components, of course, one of which is the fantastic design and ambience. As you enter the restaurant, a charming lounge area to the right invites you to enjoy a pre-meal drink or a wine tasting session. Taking centre stage is the wine shop, boasting a truly impressive vertical selection of wines you can enjoy at the restaurant or purchase as a gift. The shop has current favourites as well as very special bottles such as Vega Sicilia Unico (from 1960 onwards), Clos Erasmus (from 1989), as well as a host of new- and old-world wines.
D-Wine has cutting-edge Enomatic wine dispensing machines which allow you to personalise your wine experience. Just purchase a card and swipe it on the machines to order one or more of a choice of 24 wines by the glass. This is a great way to discover exclusive vintages before deciding to order an entire bottle to accompany your meal, or simply to expand your palate and get to know different wines to those you usually order.
The dining area, to the left, is as cosy as the rest of the venue. A large retractable roof allows the restaurant to host exquisite dining experiences all year round, offering a lovely al fresco ambience on sunny days. The staff helps to make you feel at home; they are attentive but not imposing, and should you wish to order a special bottle or enjoy wine pairings with every dish, you can rely on the keen expertise of Julio and his team.
On our most recent visit to D-Wine, we managed to try a range of dishes that showed off the Chef’s talent to perfection. First were a lovely array of starters (at D-Wine everything – all sauces, garnishings, etc. are handmade, so you know that quality is at the forefront of every dish). Standout choices included the fresh artichoke and rocket salad (it is finally artichoke season!) with a citric vinaigrette and parmesan cheese – a fine combination of textures and flavours indeed.
Equally appetite-whetting were the seared scallops served with chanterelles, cecina, batata (sweet potato), ginger purée and a beurre blanc sauce – which showed off the magic that happens when quality produce meets traditional technique. We also shared duck liver escalope with homemade fruit bread, a balsamic and plum sauce, and wine-poached pears.
Our mains were enticing as well. We sampled fare like the black cod with a ginger and hoisin glaze and vegetable sautée, with a touch of sesame oil and ginger sprouts (great for those into Asian flavours), the butcher steak (ultra-tender and tasty and served with potato, black truffle, pure green asparagus and a Marchand de Vin sauce). We continued our meat-loving escapade with charcoal-grilled short ribs with a barbecue glaze, grilled vegetables, and cherry tomato confit.
Not to be forgotten was the dessert; we tucked into a gluten-free apple cake crumble and ice-cream (always heavenly after a steak meal) and Edmund’s famous World of Chocolate – a chocolate sphere housing white chocolate ice-cream, milk chocolate mousse, and black fondant, topped with a rich Bailey’s sauce.
The common element that runs through most dishes on D-Wine’s menu is simplicity, painstaking preparation, and a respect for fine produce. The venue itself, meanwhile, is one that never fails to impress. It is a bit like coming home to a warm fireplace, great glass of wine, fantastic food and the finest of company.
WORDS MARISA CUTILLAS PHOTOGRAPHY KEVIN HORN
C.C. Azalea, C/ Ana de Austria 2, Marbella. Tel: 952 814 446.