We live in one of the most famous ‘Costas’ in the world, but there’s another one close by, and it’s every bit as famous, beautiful, and interesting, so why not venture out and discover it?
WORDS Michel Cruz PHOTOGRAPHY courtesy of www.visitalgarve.pt
We live in one of the most famous ‘Costas’ in the world, but there’s another one close by, and it’s every bit as famous, beautiful, and interesting, so why not venture out and discover it?
WORDS Michel Cruz PHOTOGRAPHY courtesy of www.visitalgarve.pt
There is a coast under three hours’ drive from Marbella that is similar to our Costa del Sol yet also notably different. Take the highway westwards, past Sotogrande, Gibraltar and Algeciras, head north to Jerez, then up to Seville and you’re less than an hour away from the border. Look left when you cross the bridge over the River Guadiana as you enter Portugal and you will see two white patches were it meets the Atlantic Ocean. They are Ayamonte (on the Spanish side of the river) and Vila Real de Santo Antonio, the first port of call in Portugal.
Well, actually you’ll pass through the quaint village of Castro Marim first, and it’s well worth stopping here for the first of what should be many bicas (espressos), for the coffee is rich and syrupy in Portugal. Castro Marim is small, but you sense its former importance in the pretty houses, churches and squares, not to mention the mighty castle standing atop the hill looking back on to Spain. It all looks quintessentially Algarvean, which is to say southern Portuguese, and this will be the first but certainly not the last time that you get a sense of how similar and yet also how distinct this region is from Andalucía.
From Castro Marim, it is a few minutes to Vila Real, a town that borders the river at its mouth, but in its resort area of Monte Gordo also faces the Atlantic Ocean. You’ll find the wonderfully long and soft sandy beaches here that characterise large parts of the 150-kilometre long Algarvean coastline, but don’t miss out on Vila Real itself, with its pretty historic centre built along the river bank and around a classic main piazza, or praça, as they say here. Vila Real is also home to one of the most elegant boutique hotels in the Algarve, the Grand House Algarve, a beautifully restored classic building overlooking the river. It recaptures the history, wealth, and style of Portugal like few others, and ranks as an authentic experience for those less keen on generic resort hotels.
Beaches, Pine Forests, And Sandy Lagoons
The eastern Algarve – the area from the Spanish border to the regional capital Faro – is a world of long sandy beaches, fragrant pine forests, sand bars, and lagoons. The Ria Formosa that extends outwards towards the sea from Faro forms part of a protected nature reserve with wetlands and bird sanctuaries, but the lagoon that runs parallel to the coast near the charming town of Tavira (roughly midway between Vila Real and Faro) is a haven of sand bars, dunes, and secluded little beaches in a coastal world dotted with fishing villages and criss-crossed by boats both modern and traditional.
Fishermen still use ancient techniques to catch octopus in these waters and not surprisingly the local villages abound with seafood restaurants overlooking the lagoon. You’ll also spot little yacht harbours and almost hidden beaches that locals like to reserve for themselves, but take a boat ride across the water and you can be dropped off on a sand spit whose soft cream-coloured sand offers beaches on both the lagoon and sea side. Nearby Tavira is one of the prettiest towns in the Algarve, rich in classic Portuguese architecture, atmosphere, and also cuisine, including such delicacies as cataplana (a seafood stew cooked in a brass pot), bacalhao a bras (a delicious cod dish) and a host of other fish, seafood, and meat dishes that are typically Portuguese and quite distinct from the Spanish kitchen.
A great place to stay here is Conversas de Alpendre, a wonderful sustainable hotel within a natural setting surrounded by the lagoon, beaches, sea, wetlands, and the fishing villages that dot this area within a short drive of Tavira itself. This eco-retreat is tourism the way it should be – low-key, natural, sustainable, nurturing, relaxing, and in harmony with its natural surroundings.
Golf Resorts, Marinas and Golden Coves
Just after Faro the coastline gradually changes into what is the iconic picture of the Algarve – sandy coves surrounded by gold-toned cliffs and an aquamarine sea. This is picture postcard beautiful, one of the signature images of summer holidays under the sun, touched by a soft Atlantic breeze. Three of the most exclusive resorts in the Algarve can be found here, starting with Quinta do Lago, which still inhabits the pine forests and lagoon beaches, yet in neighbouring Vale do Lobo the famous cliffs begin.
Both of these luxury resorts are internationally renowned for their golf courses, and the cliffside one in Vale do Lobo ranks among the most photographed in the world.
From here you reach the largest resort in the Algarve, Vilamoura, which extends along a long yacht harbour into a familiar blend of hotels, golf courses, and villa suburbs. Now you’re in the middle of the Algarve, at the heart of a region famous for its golf courses, vacation resorts, and pretty villages dotting the undulating countryside.
Head a little further west, amid a succession of resort towns such as Alvor, Lagoa, and Praia da Rocha, and you come to what is perhaps the most charming trilogy of attractions in the region, all located within a relatively short distance from one another. Together, Carvoeiro, Silves, and Monchique offer a representative picture of the variety of this region within an afternoon excursion, starting with the coastal charm of Carvoeiro, one of the more picturesque of many pretty villages.
Built against a golden cliff, the compact white village overlooks its pretty little cove and azure waters in iconic style. It’s a great place to soak up the sun, the atmosphere, and also some of that seaside cuisine before heading a little inland to the stunning little town of Silves. Possibly the prettiest of them all, Silves is a historic treasure trove surrounded by green hills. The onetime Moorish capital of the Algarve is well preserved and a lovely place to saunter around and grab a snack, but leave time for the drive up through wooded hills to the little spa town of Monchique, beautifully positioned in a parkland setting.
The End Of The World
After such earthly pleasures, the Algarve also has something a little more spiritual to offer, for as you continue westwards the landscape grows wilder, the resorts and golf courses recede and give way to the unbridled power of the sea. Sagres, on the very edge of the continent, is a haven for surfers, nature lovers, and spiritualists alike, with crowds flocking to the beaches and riding the waves by day and watching the sun sink into that endless ocean by evening. They say this is a very special experience, and the perfect way to conclude a visit to that other ‘Costa’.