It’s exciting to see Diego del Ríó at the helm of a great kitchen once again, for anyone who has sampled this Chef’s exquisite fare instinctively knows that he was put on this Earth to share his culinary artistry.
He is back from a sabbatical – which he took following working to maintain El Lago’s Michelin star for many years. After undertaking this stressful role (one he was passionate about as well), he decided to take a break without a set path ahead of him. “I just rested, saw people, met friends for lunch – things I never had time to do.” During this period, he remained busy as a founding member of Marbella All Stars – the dedicated bunch of Chefs who have created a manifesto that puts quality, sustainability, and local produce on centre stage.
Boho Club somehow seems the perfect choice for his return. A five-star resort on the Golden Mile inspired on the idea of ‘laidback luxury’, it offers an exclusive selection of rooms, bungalows, and villas – surrounded by carefully manicured gardens and a gorgeous wooden-decked pool with stylish sun lounger and beds on which to relax your cares away. If the resort is all about de-stressing, the restaurant is buzzing and alive. Boasting Boho chic décor and a plethora of bespoke pieces by top artists, it’s the new ‘it’ place to see and be seen in. On busy nights, a live DJ spins chilled dance music and conversation flows.
Diego tells me the resort will also have a spa and gym, as well as various meeting and conference spaces for business and personal events.
Boho Club is a big project for Diego and, fittingly, it is one that should be undertaken in a mindful state. His last restaurant was small and intimate; this one not only caters to the resort’s guests, but also to a profusion of Marbellís and tourists desiring a sophisticated night out. The restaurant is open for breakfast, lunch, dinner, and after-dinner drinks, running continuously from 7am until late. Diego remains true to his culinary philosophy, which is centred on modern, seasonal, fresh food that showcases the fare of local farms and suppliers. Andalusian cuisine is given a touch of magic with a daringly modern presentation and the unique blend of ingredients and painstaking technique he is known for. As a chef in close contact with the stars, he knows the value of innovation but respect for produce always comes first.
Diego is at one of the busiest points of his career. “You always have to work extra hard when you launch, as there are so many things to decide and refine. I was lucky enough to know many great people in the culinary industry who were happy to join me on this project.” The Chef is at the Club from early in the day, but assures me he finds the time to stay healthy, indulging in his favourite workout – spinning – as often as he can.
He sips on his dark coffee while revealing just a few dishes of the season. “Because the public dining at Boho Club is so multinational, we hope to entice them with courses bearing international flavours and utilising local products.” Most of the dishes on the menu bear this ideal blend of familiar and new – including the green curry gazpacho with quisquilla, the burrata crème served with a host of different tomato types, or his whole new take on vitello tonnato (which he serves with a tender roast beef, lettuce leaves, capers, and red onion). What a medley of flavours!
“We also have a daily menu for €35,” says Diego, “and we open all day – meaning you can start with an early breakfast or enjoy tapas or arrive a bit later for a shared platter and a cocktail by the bar.” Indeed, Boho Club has a stunning cocktail and terrace bar featuring fantastic wines, as well as an array of cocktails and mocktails. Boho Club also has its own wines, created alongside the man responsible for the big boom in Spanish and organic wines the world over – the great Jorge Ordoñez.
Diego tours me around the large resort, giving me his time generously. He always was a special being – one with the ability to truly give himself fully to the present moment – perhaps therein lies just one of the secrets of his success as a chef. He is a great conversationalist who envisions food as fuel and art all at once, but he is also a kind and well-loved leader, as anyone who has worked with him would attest. Diego del Río and Boho Club are indeed a match made in heaven – and arguably only a chef as Zen and keenly focused all at once as Diego del Río could have weaved the gastronomic magic that has already taken over Marbella.
WORDS MARISA CUTILLAS PHOTOGRAPHY KEVIN HORN
Urb. Lomas de Río Verde, Marbella. Tel: 952 157 222.