The scale of the new Döss restaurant near Cabopino is impressive, with ov er 4,000m2 of space (divided into two floors) available for dining and events. Döss is the new baby of dynamic duo Bruno and Giuseppina, and it certainly takes their restaurant group to a whole new level.
Mere weeks into its opening, it is already the new ‘in’ spot to meet and greet, since its stunning interior design is matched by the caring service and family atmosphere that Bruno and Giuseppina have so carefully crafted at all their restaurants. The Executive Chef of Döss is José Luis Alcántara, a talented professional who has worked in Dubai and Spain, perfecting his craft at El Lago and La Bobadilla.
Four separate terraces hold great promise for events; two are located on the top floor, overlooking the sea. The interiors are equally impressive. On the first floor, the dining areas are divided into two distinct spaces. One houses the Asian dining space, presided over by stalwart of Japanese cuisine, Carlos Navarro, who specialises in Edomae (traditional), Washoku (traditional) and homemade cuisine. He honed his craft under some of the best: Kengo Tomita, who opened his eyes to the world of sushi, and Masayoshi Kazato and Hirotoshi Ogawa.
Carlos won fifth place in the Sushi World Cup in 2016 for a dish that is served at Döss, the stunning, flaming kabanoki: a drakkar-shaped ‘boat’ housing tender salmon sushi inside (Carlos is half Swedish, thus the homage to his heritage). Kabanoki means ‘birch’ in Japanese and is a translation of the Chef’s Swedish surname: Björk.
The second space at Döss is devoted to Mediterranean dining. If the Japanese section is graced with Oriental inspired wood, cherry blossom wallpaper, and Japanese art pieces, the Mediterranean space is very Armani indeed, with lush Italian inspiration in everything from the chairs to the art pieces, and the gorgeous ancient Roman fountain on the terrace area. Between the two areas is the open-air Döss Patio, with its elegant Louis Roederer Champagne bar.
It was our first visit to Döss and we enjoyed a wide array of temptations prepared by Carlos and his team, as we sipped on Asian-inspired cocktails, including a lychee margarita and samurai mojito. The affable Jesús Tejero, Director of Events, showed us around the different celebration areas prior to our meal, and introduced us to Carlos, who explained the intricacies and history of many dishes and regaled us with fun anecdotes about his participation in the Sushi World Cup!
It is easy to see why this Chef is renowned at a World level. The dishes were outstanding and beautifully presented, displaying a blend of tradition and innovation. The magic began with a shared sushi and sashimi platter, which contained an extensive selection of melt-in-the-mouth bites, including sea bass, tuna, Japanese amberjack, and salmon sashimi, as well as a plethora of nigiri and maki. Particularly memorable was the Nigiri beef al estilo Döss, tender and fatty and heavenly upon first bite; or the Magret de Canard, featuring caramelised foie with cane honey. Some sushi pieces were lightly torched (such as the aburi salmon nigiri), while others contain salmon roe or flying fish roe (refreshing indeed when downed with a chilled glass of Verdejo).
The star sushi dish is undoubtedly Carlos’ prize-winning kabanoki roll, which was filled with salmon, avocado, and kabayaki candy – the ‘barbecuing’ process produced a beautiful smokey flavour, while the melted fat in the salmon made for tender, appealing bites. There are an array of hot dishes offered at Döss; a must order are the tempura prawns and vegetables, cooked Japanese style, with cold pearls of batter that ensure lovely texture and crunch.
The dynamite shrimp, meanwhile is doused in a beautiful spicy sauce. The salmon teriyaki, caramelised and served with edamame and broccoli, was perfect in terms of texture and caramelisation. Another amazing dish was the Robata selection, featuring a number of different skewers (chicken, pork, beef, prawns, mushrooms) served with a host of sauces (including Korean BBQ sauce and Mongolian beef sauce). The presentation was stunning, and included a small ceramic flame heater on which to keep the Robata piping hot.
The desserts stayed true to the Oriental spirit of Döss. We enjoyed a coconut and mango panna cotta (super refreshing and graced with violet flowers) and mochi (green tea, chocolate, and strawberry desserts) served with lovely pieces of crushed meringue. A more international treat was the wonderfully crisp banana and Nutella roll with white chocolate ice-cream.
The Da Bruno Group and its team have done it once again, raising the bar for dining expectations on the Coast and showing that tradition and creativity always have a place in a town that is known for celebrating life in the best way possible: through food!
WORDS MARISA CUTILLAS PHOTOGRAPHY KEVIN HORN
Open daily from 5pm in the summer. C/ Alta, Marbella. Tel: 952 000 722.