Edmund Cicans, a Chef we have hotly pursued since he landed his first job in Marbella around 15 years ago, is excited about the upcoming season at the restaurant he has been part of for over five years now: D-Wine.
Located between Puerto Banús and San Pedro, it is considered a national treasure when it comes to wine, with honours received from The World of Fine Wine for having a three-star wine list, and Wine Spectator according the restaurant esteem every year since 2015, “for having an exceptional wine list and displaying a deep commitment to wine.” Edmund, who whips up the cuisine that pairs so well with excellent bottles from Spain and beyond, notes, “We have the largest collection of Spanish wines in the world and the most comprehensive regional wine list.”
If you haven’t been to D-Wine before, then its size and layout will surely leave you gobsmacked. The first thing you see when you enter is the curved designer wine storage space, whose glass structure enables you to view some of the most impressive and pricey wines in the world. Of course, the whole point of D-Wine is that there is something for everyone. Indeed, it is easy to sample wines that would be otherwise very difficult to access thanks to a special wine dispensing machine that keeps the world’s top bottles in optimal condition.
“We have many plans for the spring and summer months,” notes Edmund, adding, “In addition to traditional meat and fish, we will also offer an array of lighter dishes made with seasonal produce. Everything we prepare is sourced fresh from the market. Throughout the year, we offer dishes made with everything from white asparagus to artichokes. In the summer, we will have a selection of salads for those after more refreshing fare.”
D-Wine has an extensive menu with an impressive number of dishes to choose from. Its ample interiors are divided into several different areas. To the right is a lounge-style space with comfy sofas and tables, where diners can experience a first-class wine tasting (or blind wine tasting) session with the sommelier, Julio César García Valdés, while downing an exquisite plate of ham or other tapas. To the left, next to the wine cellar, there are also a few tables for those in the mood for privacy. The main dining area, ensconced beneath a pergola that opens up on sunny days and closes on cold or rainy days, boasts a cosy yet lively ambience that gathers friends, families, and business people.
For Edmund, the seasons may come and go, but one thing that always stands out at D-Wine is the meat. “We have around 10 different cuts, including oxtail, picaña, chateaubriand, fillet steak, Angus ribeye, chuletón, and more.” Served with sauces like Bearnaise, black truffle, or Port sauce, these dishes are ideal with a full-bodied red. “We additionally give importance to fish and seafood and we always have freshly caught produce, including sea bass, turbot, King crab, etc. We also offer Gillardeau oysters (famed for their meatiness) from France, and Almadraba tuna, black cod, and other delicacies.”
Even chicken has found its way onto the menu. If, you are fan of super tender bites, then the coquelet is a must. “We oven-cook this dish, so that the top is super crisp and the interior, juicy and tender.” Edmund is a chef who likes to concoct beautifully presented dishes, while keeping the ingredient list simple. “The main star of the dish has to be the produce,” he says, “and the important thing is to retain its flavour and texture.”
At D-Wine, dishes are easy to share – a factor which makes it popular indeed among sophisticated diners who enjoy ‘trying a bit of everything’. “The way we present our dishes makes them easy to enjoy together at a table, which is a good way for clients to savour many servings in one sitting.” Desserts are another big pulling factor. If you love chocolate, you must try the World of Chocolate dessert, featuring a host of different textures. “We serve it as a sphere of chocolate with an interior of white chocolate ice-cream, milk chocolate mousse, and black fondant, and top it with a Bailey’s sauce.” In the summer, a host of sweet delights made with fruits and sorbets begin to surface.
Edmund frequently travels the world to source new flavour combinations and ways of presenting food, so as to keep D-Wine at the very top of the gastronomic game. “There are many places to dine and people are going out more, becoming more discerning. We therefore have to offer them something they cannot resist – great food at a reasonable price, within a setting they always feel excited about returning to.”
WORDS MARISA CUTILLAS PHOTOGRAPHY KEVIN HORN
C.C. Azalea, C/ Ana de Austria 2, Marbella. Tel: 952 814 446.