Styrbjörn Holm has donned many hats in his lifetime, directing hotels, running popular restaurants like Magna Café, and even starting up his own vodka brand. Without a doubt, however, he has met his match in his current position – that of owner and Head Chef of his own restaurant, La Campana (in Nueva Andalucía).
Holm took over this venue around three years ago, giving it a much-required design shake-up. He also upped the ‘family factor’ by bringing his two daughters in to manage and attend to diners. Anita and Anna are as much a part of La Campana as Holm. Anna, for instance, told us that she had personally created the artistic ‘blackboard menu’, filled with appealing illustrations and colours. Holm is a perfectionist through and through. We recall an occasion on which he invited essential to dine at Magna Café, which he had just started managing at the time. He had hired a talented Latvian Chef whom he asked to prepare 20 dishes for our small table. The result was, as you can imagine, perfect. Holm knows how to attract, retain, and refine top talent.
Holm is a perfectionist through and through. We recall an occasion on which he invited essential to dine at Magna Café, which he had just started managing at the time. He had hired a talented Latvian Chef whom he asked to prepare 20 dishes for our small table. The result was, as you can imagine, perfect. Holm knows how to attract, retain, and refine top talent.
His eye for detail is present in the brand new décor of La Campana, which adds plenty of sophistication and sartorial flair to the space. Serious grey-hued walls are married to designer chandeliers, modern art, photography, and an eye-catching image of a leopard at one end of the restaurant. The ambience is elegant yet laidback – quite a hard balance to achieve yet one that seems effortless at this establishment. A brand new terrace was added to the restaurant for outdoor dining, perfect for a romantic dinner on a balmy evening.
Every Chef is famed for a dish, product, or technique. In Holm’s case, the secret is definitely in his sauces. He has assistants in the kitchen, yet he makes every elaborate one of these by himself. Arguably best known at La Campana is the lobster sauce, which makes a lovely dipping treat for the selection of fish and seafood dishes. Thus, one dining companion ordered a monkfish and prawn skewer, served with the creamy, flavour-packed dipping treat that brought the ‘wow’ factor into the equation. Speaking of the monkfish, the presentation is worthy of mention. Served on a vertical skewer that rocks gently when the plate is moved, it highlighted the colour and quality of the ingredients in a visually impactful manner.
Expect to find Holm’s creative interpretations of classic dishes at La Campana. One fine example is the foie gras, served with green apple, gel made from violets, and berries. Holm flambeed the apple in Calvados, creating a fine caramelised top layer that is delightfully delicate.
Our large and loquacious table shared many delightful starters, some of which were Scandinavian through-and-through, such as the toast skagen, as traditional and irresistible as you might imagine. Holm has also re-envisioned marinated salmon toast, slicing his salmon into tender cubes rather than the typical paper fine slices. The result was infinitely juicier and more satisfying. We tucked into a few hot starters as well, including the ultra-crisp spring rolls (made by a talented Filipina cook) and the delicately light yet juicy king prawn tempura. One choice we all went ga-ga over was the French onion soup – so tender, fragrant, and filled with flavour.
Our mains were equally exquisite. They included a generous plate of pil-pil spaghetti (an ideal choice if spicy food entices you), a lightly fried John Dory served with a creamy moral mushroom sauce and seasonal veggies, and the soul-soothing Africana beef fillet with an aromatic curry sauce, plantains, and exotic additions like nuts and diced mandarins and pineapple – a lovely blend indeed of sweetness and spice.
If produce, technique, ambience, and service are the secrets to a restaurant’s success, then Holm has certainly found the right buttons to press. By creating a family feeling and hiring staff like the waiter Imad (who was quick, attentive, and happy to be at the restaurant on his very first day of work), he has created the type of venue that families and couples alike wish to return to. The idea of being able to travel the world through Holm’s dishes is a joy indeed, but so is knowing that restaurants like these are one reason why Marbella continues to be a choice destination for discerning travellers who rate a destination through the value of its gastronomy.
WORDS MARISA CUTILLAS PHOTOGRAPHY KEVIN HORN
Open daily for lunch and dinner from 1pm to 1am. Avda. Miguel de Cervantes 68, Nueva Andalucía. Tel: 952 814 041.