Michelin-starred critics may be well-versed in the exquisiteness of produce, ideal cooking times, and novel techniques, but many would argue that diners’ palates are the best gauge of an excellent dining experience. Those who subscribe to this point of view look to lists such as Travellers’ Choice Best of the Best – a yearly compilation that includes categories such as Best Fine Dining Restaurants in the World. This year, two Spanish restaurants have made it to top five status – Martín Berasategui (in Lasarte-Oria, Guipúzcoa), which took fourth place, and El Xato (in La Nucia, Alicante), which took the fifth spot. What qualities did travellers most value and why are these restaurants worth a road trip or flight if food motivates you like few other passions?
Words Marisa Cutillas, Photography Courtesy of Martín Berasategui and El Xato
Michelin-starred critics may be well-versed in the exquisiteness of produce, ideal cooking times, and novel techniques, but many would argue that diners’ palates are the best gauge of an excellent dining experience. Those who subscribe to this point of view look to lists such as Travellers’ Choice Best of the Best – a yearly compilation that includes categories such as Best Fine Dining Restaurants in the World. This year, two Spanish restaurants have made it to top five status – Martín Berasategui (in Lasarte-Oria, Guipúzcoa), which took fourth place, and El Xato (in La Nucia, Alicante), which took the fifth spot. What qualities did travellers most value and why are these restaurants worth a road trip or flight if food motivates you like few other passions?
Words Marisa Cutillas, Photography Courtesy of Martín Berasategui and El Xato
Martín Berasategui
Chef Martín Berasategui is a true icon on the gastronomic scene, having dedicated 47 years of his career to his life’s passion. He honed his craft in France, where he lived and worked from the ages of 15 to 27. He was lucky to have great teachers such as Jean Paul Heinard, André Mandion, François Brouchican, and Bernard Lacarrau. However, his mentor in the world of haute cuisine was Michel Guérard, with whom he worked at the prestigious establishment, Les Prés D’Eugénie. Later, he sharpened his skills even more with Alain Ducasse at Louis XV in Monaco. In 1993, he opened Restaurante Martín Berasategui in Lasarte-Oria (around seven kilometres from San Sebastián) alongside his wife, Oneka Arregui.
Stars in the Sky
The Martín Berasategui restaurant in Lasarte-Oria boasts three Michelin stars. Here, discerning diners enjoy a tasting menu that includes delights such as oysters with a wasabi emulsion and crunchy sea lettuce; smoked sardine with Basque chilli sauce, cucumber mayonnaise, and watercress; and baby squid tartare in its own juice with touches of toasted walnuts, yema, seaweed, and kaffir. There is also an à la carte menu for those who are seeking a shorter experience.
What Did Reviewers Say?
TripAdvisor voters highlighted everything from the service to the artistry of the presentation. One reviewer, Mattpoole69, wrote, “We treated ourselves to the 15-course tasting menu paired with the wine and enjoyed three-and-a-half hours of the most beautiful food to grace a dinner plate. Staff were really friendly and Martin’s nephew even gave us a tour of the kitchen to see where this magic was made.”
Another diner reported that during his visit, Martin was away recovering from knee surgery. However, the chef had left his guest a present and his book. Kind, attentive touches such as these are one reason why you will find many reviewers comparing this restaurant favourably to other Michelin-starred establishments. The excellence of the wine pairing experience and the knowledge of the sommelier are also frequently mentioned.
Creativity is highly prized, with one reviewer surprised at finding unique ingredients like sea urchin (which they had never tried outside Japan) on the menu. Far from leaning on Japanese tradition, however, the Chef has given this ingredient a personal touch and prepared it for his guests with a signature recipe. At his eponymous restaurant, Berasategui values artistry, but also teamwork. If he is proudest of one thing, it is his ability “to create unified teams and emblematic establishments.”
El Xato
Nestled in La Nucia, a municipality ensconced between Polop de la Marina, Benidorm, and Callosa de Ensarriá, and just three kilometres from the Altea Coast, is El Xato – the Michelin-starred dream child of Cristina Figueira. This restaurant is over a century old. In 1915, what was a modest wine cellar was converted into a tapas bar. Many generations down the line, it is one of Marina Baixa’s most prestigious restaurants.
A Woman of Many Talents
Chef, Cristina Figueira, is certainly a woman for all seasons. She commenced her career as a dental hygienist, learning the art of cooking under the guiding hand of her mother-in-law, Esperanza Fuster. Steadily and unceasingly, she became one of the most influential chefs in the region, owing to what the Michelin Guide calls her “dominion over Alicantine recipes and her vision of creative cuisine, which is closely linked to the essence of this land.” At El Xato, diners can take their pick from tasting menus, succulent rice dishes, and punctiliously prepared pairings. When it comes to wines, bottles from the Comunidad Valenciana take the starring role.
There are two menus available at El Xato: Menú Tentaciones (featuring six aperitifs, four entrées, a main dish and dessert) and Menú Centenario ‘El Xato’ (a menu that delights guests with Cristina’s most innovative dishes and has six aperitifs, six entrées, a fish dish, a meat dish, a refreshing ‘pre-dessert’ concoction and a dessert). Both menus have a wine pairing option.
What Did Reviewers Say?
Reviewers highlighted three main aspects of El Xato: its over 100-year-long history, the freshness of its Mediterranean cuisine, and the friendly, family-run service. Sustainability, regional ingredients, and respect for the Planet are the values around which the staff’s work is centred. One UK reviewer, 494travels, said, “ I was blown away by the extraordinary quality of the food and the number of dishes included, particularly for the price. The staff took the time to talk to us about the origin, story, and ingredients of each dish and were clearly hugely passionate about what they were doing.” Another highlighted the attention and knowledge of the sommelier.
El Xato has an interesting page on its website that you should check out if you really want to make a foodie who will be in Alicante soon happy. This page features ‘Cajas Regalo Experiencia Seis Sentidos’ and it includes an array of menus you can add to your cart. With the gift code your loved ones receive, they can book a table through the website within a six-month period.