Marisol, who also shone as a biologist and politician, is married to the eminent, self-effacing Orthopaedic Surgeon, Javier Mareque. A major wine buff, he insisted that the couple purchase an eight-hectare property – complete with 16th Century seigniorial house – in 1979, just after Marisol had given birth to their fourth child. He suggested that the property be her fifth ‘baby’ and he, its éminence grise.
For the first decade, Marisol simply grew and sold grapes (and kiwis) until, in 1989, the couple decided that they should become a proper estate winery bottling their own wines.

Situated in Meis, some 15 minutes northeast of Cambados, in the Salnés Valley and heartland of Rías Baixas, their winery produces bottles that are pure Albariño, illustrating just how intriguing aged styles can be. Of course, most people are more than content to simply enjoy the region’s delicious young styles.
Marisol, popularly known as ‘la ‘Reina or ‘Dama del Albariño’, passed the torch of the winery to the capable hands of her daughter Vicky Mareque (whose key cohorts are also female and who include winemaker, Ana Quintela).

Currently, the family vineyard holding amounts to some 22 hectares, with a further 30 – consisting of 300 small plots – farmed on the basis of historic agreements with 110 local families.

The vineyards lie at sea level on shallow, acidic sandy soils or xabre (decomposed granite which imparts very particular flavours and provides excellent drainage) over deep granitic bedrock. They are trained on trellises, away from the damp and in the interests of ventilation. A multitude of sensors allows satellite tracking to monitor not only the state of the vines but keep an eagle eye on the weather.

All the fruit is handpicked. Maceration is kept to a minimum, and full advantage is taken of such a myriad of individual plots.
The estate is a highly sought-out wedding venue too.

Pazo Señorans Albariño 2020 (13.5%)

Steel fermented at 16°, left on its fine lees for five months, and then resting in the bottle for four months prior to release.
Pale lustrous green with a hint of gold; its citric lime/greengage and quince aromas carry through onto the palate to result in a very fine, exuberant tangy sensation. Not entirely dry either so perfect on its own.
Production approximately 300,000 bottles

Pazo Señorans Tras los Muros Berta García 2018 (13%)

Barrel fermented, subsequently oak aged for six months, a further six months in steel, then left to rest in the bottle for a further 15 months prior to release. Made from just four hectares by Vicky’s sister in law Berta.
Pale lustrous gold with an intriguing aroma of witch hazel imbued oak and apple peel; briny baked apple and quince on the palate, but with super tangy underpinning zip. Long, with notable acidity and majorly intertwined oak tang. Rich, but in a very subtle, sinewy way.
Partner with serious shellfish or perhaps steak tartare.
Production 2,790 bottles

Pazo Señorans Vino de Guarda Colección 2017 ((13.5%)

Steel fermented at 16°, left on its fine lees for five months, and then left to rest in the bottle for 30 months prior to release.
Sheeny yellowy green-gold, aromas of candied quince and greengage with effusive tingly/sprightly fruit and a hint of custard apple; satisfyingly rounded on the palate, with a striking finish and great acidity.
Lovely on its own; lobster and other crustaceans would be ideal accompaniments.
Production – limited; I tried No. 16,529.

Pazo Señorans Selección de Añada 2012 (13%)

Made from old vines (45 years on average), steel fermented at 16°, left on its fine lees for 36 months in small steel deposits, and finally bottled in April 2021.
An alluring green and yellow-tinged gold; this – on opening – has an intense fumy incense condensed lime, greengage, and quince compote character but, after 30 minutes, opens out into a seriously satisfyingly mellow offering of amazing depth and breadth replete with savoury mineral and salty elements.
This, if ever there was one, is a wine to chill out with and tell stories over – accompanied by a plate of seriously good juicy jamón de jabugo and/or a most delicate creamy blue cheese.
Production – between 12,000 and 18,000 bottles