Dynamic Duo

The restaurant is the product of the perfect partnership of David Olivas and Fabián Villar. David, who hails from Jaén, is a talented chef who worked alongside Dani García for more than a decade, honing his creativity in a number of prestigious venues. He is known for his meticulous attention to detail and the championing of Andalusian produce. Fabián meanwhile, who is from Ronda, is the front-of-house manager, and has garnered a reputation as an award-winning sommelier, including Best Sommelier Andalucía – Málaga – Costa del Sol in 2014. Together, they form a formidable team which, since opening Back in 2016, has established an ever-growing admiration from critics, the public, and the media.

The restaurant is located in Calle Pablo Casals, comprising the street-level premises of stone-clad Edificio Fontanillo. You will normally be greeted by Fabián on arrival and shown to your table, from where you will be able to observe David and his team working their magic in the glass fronted kitchen. If, like most, you are coming for the Menú de Degustación, it is imperative to reserve and to be aware of the latest possible arrival time to be able to savour its many courses.

The main dining salon is elongated and combines rectangular, square and circular solid wooden tables with wall sofas and distinct sets of dining chairs set at each. Plants divide the area and there is also a compartmentalised section offering a more private dining experience. Slate coloured tiles with a Fleur-de-Lys motif form the flooring throughout and large windows running the length of the street provide plenty of daylight during lunchtime, reflecting from the substantial mirrors on the facing wall to convey the sensation of spacial separation. With unobtrusive background music, the ambience is a pleasant elegant casual combo. Angled spotlights develop this cosy dining atmosphere in the evening.

The Main Affair

With the delivery of rustic bread and a duo of fine olive oils – Cortijo Spiritu Santo and La Oliva Rioja – our party of four settled in for the main experience: the Menú Entorno. This is a multi-tiered gastronomic journey that showcases eight individual plates, each one of which is really a double dish with the main constituent of the primary serving also being employed in an alternative preparation, that is either served alongside or immediately afterwards. To keep apace of this, pay attention to the knowledgeable and smartly dressed waiters, Dimitri and Kelso, or sometimes Fabián himself, who present each dish with an explanation of its constituents.

So, for example, the first serving of Almadraba Tuna Belly, Porra Antequera with Iced Pepper and Gazpacho has the same cut of tuna served on a brioche with black pepper as its follow up, and so the theme continues for the duration of the tasting menu. Among the many highlights of this culinary extravaganza, were the Squid from Estepona and Pickled Sea Fennel, Genal Valley and its Iberian Chestnut Pig, and Fried Pigeon Breast in Bread Crust. The experience is a unique one, with waves of contrasting flavours, taste sensations, and palate refreshers, like a finely tuned symphony. The medley of plates, dishes, stands, and artefacts these intricate concoctions are served upon is impressive to say the least, as is the wooden rack of cutlery with columns of spoons and forks placed beside each diner. 

An array of wine pairings served in fine-stemmed glasses is available to enjoy with Entorno or one can order by the glass. The former features a diverse selection of vintages, including a Brut Cuvée, an aromatic white wine from Ribeira Sacra in Galicia, an Orange wine from the Axarquía, and excellent tintos from Cazalla de la Sierra in Sevilla and Castilla-La Mancha.

For those with a particular penchant or with less time available, the á la carte menu features a tempting range of preparations including some of the elements of the Tasting Menu available as main course options.

We finished a lengthy lunch sojourn with a Lemon Peel Iced Tartlet, well accompanied by a chilled Málaga Mountain Wine, all in agreement that Back is supremely named as we will surely return.