For decades, Rioja Blanco could only be made with Viura, Malvasia, and Garnacha Blanca grapes. Finally, this restriction was relaxed and a new chapter in Rioja was born, resulting in a modern generation of products which are finding favour with white wine connoisseurs.
Words: PHILIP HARRIS, Photography: BODEGAS TOBÍA AND CONDE VALDEMAR
For decades, Rioja Blanco could only be made with Viura, Malvasia, and Garnacha Blanca grapes. Finally, this restriction was relaxed and a new chapter in Rioja was born, resulting in a modern generation of products which are finding favour with white wine connoisseurs.
Words: PHILIP HARRIS, Photography: BODEGAS TOBÍA AND CONDE VALDEMAR
In the Beginning
Our story starts on the 6th June, 1925 when Rioja was granted its DO status. In addition to the red varieties, three white grapes were permitted: Viura, Malvasía and Garnacha blanca. The prolific Viura soon established itself as the favourite in an era where yield tended to be more desirable than quality. Although two generations have considered Rioja to be a powerhouse for quality red wine production, this did not make itself obvious until the mid1970s. This might also explain why so many of us who first cut our teeth on red Rioja were treated to a seemingly never-ending supply of 1970 and other mature delights. Today, although whites only represent 9% of total Rioja sales, this does not truly reflect their growth over the last decade.
If You Don’t Know What You’re Doing, Leave it to the Experts
Bodegas such as López de Heredia and Marqués de Murrieta became craftsmen of Viura dominated blends, along with a judicious splodge of Malvasía to provide viscosity to pair with Viura’s crisp acidity. However, they realised that prolonged but careful barrel maturation was needed to draw out the aromas of both grapes, particularly Viura. Taste Viña Gravonia or Castillo Ygay to appreciate the complexity achieved by these masters. Not everyone was as diligent or skilful and there were many ‘wannabees’ which failed. A vicious circle was at work: without long maturation, the aromas and flavours of neither Viura nor Malvasía would materialise, but prolonged oaking led to many flabby, oxidised wines. These provided a deterrent to further Rioja Blanco sales.
Swimming Against the Tide
The arrival of INOX (stainless steel) vats produced an unexpected problem for Rioja. Bodegas like Marqués de Riscal and La Rioja Alta were not slow to recognise its advantages, but knew that other varieties were better suited to it than the authorised ones. The conservative legislators of the Consejo were much slower to acknowledge this and react. Light, fruity, zippy, unoaked whites became universally popular and Rioja was left behind.
If You Can’t Beat Them, Join Them
Years of potential sales were lost until 2007 and a realisation from the DO that something had to change. Initially the new rules were carefully created to ensure that the new varieties, especially the non-native ones did not usurp the three permitted back in 1925. Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Verdejo, along with Maturana Blanca, Tempranillo Blanco and Turruntés (the last three deemed native) could appear in blends as long as traditional varieties made up the majority. Furthermore, native varieties could be used to make single-varietal wines, but the three interlopers could not, nor could they be listed before a native grape on a wine label. No new plantings were allowed: it was one vine out, one in. A further relaxation of the laws has now taken place, with equal status given to the non-native varietals. However it appears that many bodegas are more interested in creating better wines from either the original three or adding the native grapes to their blends.
Embracing Change
Few have used the new legislation with as much alacrity as Oscar Tobía. As a relative newcomer starting in 1994, much of his time has been spent challenging the authorities to allow him to experiment in ways that many would consider heretical. A three year study, ending in 2015 experimented with different woods – acacia and chestnut, alongside American oak. He has planted some of the new varietals and his Alma Tobía blend is comprised of Viura, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. The Conde Valdemar Blanco 2020 from Bodega Martínez Bujanda is produced from 60% Viura, Tempranillo Blanco, Malvasía and Sauvignon Blanc.
And Will They Live Happily Ever After?
Of the ‘new arrivals’ it is Tempranillo Blanco, not the international grapes which is causing waves. Created from a natural genetic mutation found in one red Tempranillo vine, it exists nowhere else. According to Rafael Vivanco of Dinastía Vivanco, one of the three original Bodegas with holdings, it is not as aromatic as Sauvignon Blanc, but fresher than Chardonnay. It is now the second most planted white grape after Viura, albeit with a measly1.14% of Rioja’s total hectares. From 2013, Whites and Rosés have regularly generated double figure growth, even in years when consumption and sales have fallen. Has there ever been a better time to rediscover Rioja Blanco?