Food critics and food lovers alive have undoubtedly witnessed the demise of molecular gastronomy – the movement that saw chefs playing with amalgams and liquid nitrogen, and using pressure probes to determine the crunchiness of batter. That is not to say that the trend hasn’t had its benefits, such as a greater awareness of the scientific processes behind many techniques. However, traditional cuisine has stood the test of time by relying on methodologies handed down across generations to create flavours, textures, and aromas that satisfy the palate while pleasing the eye. Add to that the wonder of innovation, and that is precisely the cuisine that Txema Palacio, the Executive Chef of Grupo Besaya, brings to the table.

Diario Sur’s Enrique Bellver hit the nail on the head when he referred to Palacio’s fare as “updated traditional cuisine.” For the chef, the quality of produce and excellent technique are two essential ingredients of success. However, a third element stands out in his fare: local cuisine. Palacio hails from Bilbao, which he calls “the capital of the world,” owing to its rich culinary tradition. However, one of the main reasons he is so happy to live and work in Málaga is its exquisite Mediterranean produce. When I ask him to describe his cuisine, he says that it results from “two influences: Basque cuisine, with its profound respect for produce and traditional techniques, and Malagueño cuisine, which is fresh and light-filled, capable of elevating simple produce with its simplicity and elegance.” These influences are celebrated at Besaya Group’s three restaurants on the Coast – TikiTano, Besaya Beach, and Malva.

Palacio was born and raised in Bilbao, where he attended the Escuela Superior de Hostelería. Upon graduation, he honed his craft at a myriad of renowned restaurants in Spain ranging from Goizeko Kabi and the Gran Hotel in Salamanca, to respected establishments in the south of France. He has also shone on the Marbella gastronomic scene. He was working as Head Chef of Río Real Golf & Hotel Marbella when Grupo Besaya contacted him to launch Besaya Beach – a frontline beach restaurant famed for its fish and seafood delights.

Running three restaurants is no small feat. Palacio’s responsibilities extend beyond the kitchen and involve managing a large team, dealing with suppliers, and budgeting. However, management is an art he has mastered to perfection; one has the sense that Palacio is very much on top of his game. He is confident, honest, and a passionate advocate for quality. We ask him about the cuisine of each of these restaurants, and he tells us, “Besaya’s cuisine is Mediterranean. We focus on freshness and exceptional produce with a touch of fusion. The aim is to offer a top-notch seaside dining experience. We serve various types of fish, seafood, and rice. The sea takes centre stage.” Offerings include sea bass, cod, and market-free fish and seafood caught daily by local fishermen. “We also serve clams, crayfish, and lobster. Of course, we also have meat dishes, including tenderloin and other cuts.”

TikiTano, easily one of Marbella’s most beautiful restaurants with its stunning sea views, serves cuisine that Palacio calls “somewhat similar to Besaya Beach’s but with a slightly greater emphasis on smoke.” Here, the magnificent Josper grill reigns supreme, breathing appealing smoky life into the freshest fish and meat dishes. “TikiTano also hosts many business events, private parties and weddings, so we are always busy,” the Chef says. Finally, Malva, the Besaya Group’s newest venture, is the establishment Palacio calls his “most personal project.” He elaborates, “At Malva, I play more with creativity without going past a certain point. Flavour is my number one priority.” He defines this establishment as “a modern chiringuito by the sea,” where diners can tuck into everything from freshly caught fish to prawns from Sanlucar, red prawns from Garrucha, crayfish, and tuna from Almadraba. The restaurant has an outdoor Basque-style grill where an array of meat and fish dishes are prepared.

When he’s not working, he enjoys spending quality time with his wife and daughter, mountain biking, and, of course, dining out. His favourite jaunts include Back (for fine dining), the Asador Guadalmina (for grilled dishes), and Taberna La Niña del Pisto (for tapas). In the centre of Málaga, meanwhile, he enjoys visiting Dani Carnero’s celebrated restaurant, La Cosmo. One restaurant he is excited about trying, meanwhile, is two-Michelin-starred restaurant Bardal in Ronda, headed by Benito Gómez. He knows that being a chef involves being present and finding fast solutions to challenges as they arise. Still, he possesses an enviable ability to be truly grateful for the wonderful things in his life.